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WINE COLUMN
 
Four Style Mistakes

By Carolyn Evans Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately on 18/12/09

GQ’s website recently posted: “The Seven Style Mistakes We've All Made... and how to correct them”.  The first one read: “Mistake 1: The Schlumpy Leather Jacket”

“Problem: There’s nothing modern—or even retro-cool—about a leather jacket that fits like a rain poncho.”

“Solution: When trying on a new leather jacket, keep going down a size until you can’t get it on, then buy the next size up. It should feel snug as a wetsuit but will take your body’s shape over time….” 

GQ, I love you for helping men become more style-conscious but are you for real?

The last thing I want to see in Toronto--or anywhere cold--this winter is a bunch of mostly unslim Jims stuffed into skintight black leather.  And how, pray tell, will they stay warm let alone fit a warm woolly sweater beneath that new-fangled wetsuit?   Bad enough women are pressured to suffer undersized, impractical clothing and waddle around like stuffed sausages in the name of fashion, usually looking hideous; must we do the same to men?  The moral is this: dear Gawd, unless you have the physique, weather and occasion to pull it off with aplomb—male or female—don’t do skintight.  

The rest of the GQ tips are great too but I’ll switch gears because this is, afterall, a wine piece.  Here are four style mistakes, that relate to wine.

Style Mistake 1

Problem: As romantic the notion may be to some, there’s nothing remotely yummy about dry Champagne and strawberries.  The sweetness of the fruit turns the wine into battery acid.

Solution: If you must pair strawberries and bubbly, opt for a slightly sweet sparkler.  The ubiquitous but great value Martini & Rossi Asti works well with its aromatic flavours of elderflower cordial and green apple with zippy acidity.  Or, better yet, opt for L’Armangia Il Giai Moscato d’Asti (0135632 $14.95) recently released in Ontario.  It brims with floral notes, sweet apple, pineapple, and pear.  This intensely fruited, gently effervescent, low alcohol (5%) thriller is gorgeous with strawberries—for dessert.

Style Mistake 2

Problem: Serving very complex wines with fancy fare.

Solution: Give the food or the wine the limelight—not both.  When pouring expensive, complex wines, serve simple food to complement the wine rather than upstage or obliterate it.  Think: great Cabernet Sauvignon or red Bordeaux with simply roasted beef and potatoes or fabulous white Burgundy like Montrachet with a simple fish dish.  If you’re showcasing your homemade gnocchi with sage brown butter and a sprinkle of Parmigiano-Reggiano, pour something delicious but simple like a balanced oaked Chardonnay.  One that seriously over-delivers is the newly released South African gem, Laborie Chardonnay 2008 (0146332 $13.95).  It’s very creamy yet very fresh with soft apple and crisp citrus notes overlaid with rich, custardy flavours and some lovely toffee too. 

Style Mistake 3

Problem: The misguided practice of always avoiding big brands in favour of smaller producers with the belief only boutiques deliver great value. 

Solution: Ignore this myth.  The best big brands can offer the best value on shelves due to economies of scale.  Granted not all big brands are created equally but you can trust better makers such as Concha y Toro, Robert Mondavi, Beringer, Rosemount, Penfolds, Masi, or Errazuriz not to let you down.  I particulary like Errazuriz’s Wild Ferment Pinot Noir 2008 (0510396 $18.95).  Beautiful rich bramble fruit leads to flavours of raspberries, earth, smoke and violets.  The finish is spicy and crisp.  And the body full and silky—14% alc.  Great value.  And certainly an excellent choice for roast turkey.

Style Mistake 4

Problem: Trying to conform to wine and food rules instead of following your own taste.

Solution: If you disagree with any food and wine recommendation or rule, pitch it.  The only palate that really matters is your own.  That means: red wine with fish?  Sure.  White with cheese?  Absolutely.  Dry fizz with strawberries?  Of course!!  Just don't offer me any.   

The wines noted show their Ontario product numbers and prices.  If you live outside of Ontario, Canada, go to http://www.wine-searcher.com and search for a stockist in your area.

Carolyn Evans Hammond’s latest book, Good Better Best Wines, A No-Nonsense Guide to Popular Wines, hits shelves in April.  Her critical articles and reviews have appeared in such eminent magazines as Decanter and Wine & Spirit International in the United Kingdom, as well as Maclean’s, Taste, and Tidings in Canada and her first book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, earned critical acclaim and international distribution with the distinction of being a best-seller by Canadian standards.  Qualified sommelier and seasoned journalist, Carolyn holds the Diploma from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust and a BA from York University.  Carolyn has lived in many cities in North America and Europe, and now resides in Toronto, where she was born.

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