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OASI RESTAURANT: AN OASIS OF WINE

By Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately, Toronto, ON 28/11/08

Oasi, with its swank lounge, majestic bar, upscale restaurant, and cush heated patio achieves that elusive balance between swish and chic. Enormous convex chandeliers twinkle, suspended from high ceilings. Circular red leather booths seat eight comfortably. Darkened nooks with an ethereal feel draw you in. It’s a cool place to kick back, bundled in a discreet but sweet location—99 Sudbury Street in Toronto’s Parkdale region. But the real reason to go is for the wine and food experience.

We all know wine and food pairing is usually a crap shoot when dining out. At best, it's missionary position matching. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Take a good restaurant and throw in a proper sommelier who knows the stock well, can read people, and is tight with the chef, and the satisfaction can be intense. I’ve rarely experienced that level of care in Canada but that may be about to change.

At Oasi, Canada’s first and only master sommelier John Szabo is in charge of the cellar and by extension, my wine joy and yours should we choose to visit. Intrigued by the thought of putting John to the test, I went to the grand opening earlier this month. After taking in a bit of the party, which was impressively packed with stylish well-heeled thirty and forty-somethings, I approached John and asked him to simply pour me something I would like. I offered no hints about what I might fancy and he doesn’t know my preferences—only that I’m probably a bit particular since I’m a wine writer. He had to read me cold—the true test of a good sommelier. And both times, he aced it. I suspect dining there would yield similar results. I may well test drive the full experience soon.

But in the meantime, since this is a wine column, I thought I would try a little role-playing. I’m the sommelier. You’re the diner. The meal is a tasting menu of small dishes. And the cellar is the general listings at the LCBO—bottles that are always available. You in? Great. Read on.

You start with a plate of lightly steamed asparagus with fresh pesto for dipping--great fingerfood. You would like something Canadian and not too expensive. I recommend Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc from Ontario (430546 $14.95). The attractive flavours of green lime and Granny Smith apple work well with the herbal notes of the asparagus and basil while the crisp acidity lifts the sauce. Good chemistry to start the meal.

Next, you are served a lightly toasted slice of brioche topped with sautéed wild mushrooms and one perfectly soft-poached quail egg. Now is the time to break out the Champagne and I would pour you a tall flute of Louis Roederer Brut Premier from France (2687771 $67.95) with its butter pastry notes and subtle flavours and aromas of cooked apple. Bone dry and delicate, this wine is the gold standard of non-vintage, grand marque bubbly. And mushrooms with Champagne are a terrific match. Trust me.

For your third course, you have a filet of orange roughy, pan-fried in butter, served with four seared scallops. A few French beans and baby carrots complete the plate. My mind immediately turns to Sancerre with its restrained fruit and deep minerality that works so well with fish and seafood. The perfect selection? Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Les Baronness from Loire, France (54248 $24.95). Hardcore value in a classic Sancerre—think cut grass, wet stones, pink and white flowers, pink grapefruit, lemon and fresh herbs. Ideal.

Next, you have roasted pork tenderloin with caramelized pearl onions and sautéed Swiss chard. What would I recommend? Castelmonte Cent’are Nero d’Avola from Sicily, Italy (546192 $14.95). This light- to medium-bodied red with bright black and red berry fruit is perfect with its floral and smoky notes to add an interesting dimension to the meal.

And to finish, you opt for a selection from the cheeseboard. Here, I recommend a glass of Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenair from France (108704 $129.95). This is not the stuff you find in B52 shooters, don’t worry. A single sip delivers the opulence of the fine silken cognac glossed with subtle orange oil and fresh walnut—flavours that work beautifully with artisanal, hand-selected cheeses. It doesn't disappoint.

To find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit www.vintages.com and search by the product name.

This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted at www.wine-tribune.com. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans-Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, Tidings magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada. Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website.