Wine News & Features
Click on the links below to view items from
your selection
Wine Column
CHRISTMAS DINNER WINE
By Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately,
So I went to Abercombie & Fitch the other day to pick up something sweet and trendy for each of my two teenaged nieces, and was blown away by just how hip the store is. First thing that strikes you is the powerful scent—they clearly brand the air with A&F eau de toilette. Then, within seconds of stepping into the barely lit store with loud pounding house music, beautiful young things in really cute outfits—faded jeans and fitted t-shirts—get right up close so you can hear them mew, “Can I help you find something?” I need something cool for my teenaged nieces. What would you recommend? “Well, it really depends on their style. But we have some great hoodies in the back.” As I headed through the throngs of young shoppers wading through merchandise, I passed huge posters of near naked men—close-ups of bare-chested and seriously-cut boys in low-slung jeans only just held up by rugged leather belts. Nice. I found the hoodies, figured they would suit the sporty style of the girls, plucked a couple from the shelves, and headed to the cash where a slim girl of about 19 with perfect breasts and a pretty smile worked the computerized register beside tall young men clearly chosen for the job based on their close resemblance to the store’s poster boys. What a great shopping experience. The full 12 minutes I spent in the store made me feel 20 years younger. That alone was worth the drive to A&F. That was the end of my Christmas shopping. Now, I can turn my mind to the more mature pleasures of wine. Drum roll. This is the moment you’ve been waiting for. Time to think about what wine will grace the Christmas dinner table. So let’s talk menu for a minute. Traditionally, the options are turkey, goose, ham or roast beef—the latter being quite British. This year, lobster is added to the list with its current rock bottom prices, and will certainly be a contender at my house where I’m hosting a small gathering this year. So, based on those mains, let’s turn to wine. With bland but popular poultry goes featureless but well-liked wine. The obvious choice? Pinot Grigio. Di Lenardo Vineyards Pinot Grigio from Friuli, Goose Although this bird can be tedious to prepare properly, pricking the skin all over then dipping it in boiling water to help release the fat, roast goose can be glorious. To me, it’s akin to the most tender roast beef. So what’s good for the goose? Let’s take a gander at Pinot Noir and turn to Ham With this salty meat, I like German Riesling. The dry or off-dry complexity of this wine is such a great match. Consider Dr. Von Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Kabinett 2007 from Roast Beef If you like your roast beef to show a little pink, and are looking for an impressive cabernet sauvignon, you could grab a bottle of the pricey but delicious Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 from Napa Valley, California (045476 $77.95). It’s certainly impressive—beautiful balance of firmness and finesse. Warm breath of cassis and pencil shavings, pencil lead, black cherry, fresh meat, dried herbs and sweet spice. For something more reasonably priced, you could pick up Zolo Reserve Malbec 2005 from Mendoza, Argentina, (081091 $16.95), which starts with a savory, subtle nose then leads to a full and penetrating palate of smoked black plum, wild cherry and blueberry, and warm bonfires. Quite stylish. Lobster To me, the best wine for lobster is But if fizz isn’t your thing, the next best choice I think would be a fine white Burgundy such as Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières 2006 from Burgundy, France (087049 $101.95). This wine is quite extravagant on the nose and palate—buttered toast, apple butter, hazelnut, almond, warm bread, orange oil, olive oil, pepper, butterscotch. Concentrated, complex and long. Drinking well now but will improve for up to 12 Christmases if cellared properly. A real gem from an esteemed vineyard and magnificent vintage. Something for the Cheeseboard When you serve the cheeseboard after dinner, there’s probably no better wine to uncork than Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 2003 (548677 $93.95). This gorgeous Italian makes me wish I had never used the phrase crushed velvet before because it so epitomizes the wine that I want to slap that descriptor down on the page here—all shiny and new. Lush. Lush. Dried and fresh plum purée, black cherry jam, vanilla and spice. Ripe and very serious full-bodied sipper (16% alcohol). To find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit www.vintages.com and search by the product name. This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted at www.wine-tribune.com. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans-Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, Tidings magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada. Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website.